Cheddar: king of cheeses

As our title “England’s Cheddar makers” makes clear, we’re proud of the part our family business has played in the story of this glorious cheese. After all, it’s fair to say that Cheddar is an internationally recognised symbol of English food, to rank alongside roast beef and few others.

It’s even more, as well: Cheddar is a symbol of English ingenuity and tradition. It’s an essential part of our national culture, and is so beloved around the world that some countries have even tried to claim it as their own. But how did its fame spread from a small village in Somerset to every corner of the globe?

Cheese historians trace the invention of Cheddar at least as far back as the 14th Century. It was doubtless much earlier, but records really began in the 15th, when rich visitors arrived in the area to see landmarks such as the caves of Cheddar Gorge, and tasted the local cheese. Demand grew from there and by the 17th Century, Cheddar was so highly prized and fashionable that almost the area’s entire production was being transported to the court of King Charles I, leaving almost none for the rest of the population.

Cheddar’s reputation as England’s favourite cheese has continued unbroken since then, and it even took on a further dimension as a source of national pride. A giant 1,000lb wheel of Cheddar was presented to Queen Victoria on her marriage in 1840, while Captain Scott took 3,500lb of it on his 1901 expedition to the South Pole.

Despite this, there is no formal recipe for Cheddar, no rules about how it’s made, and no fixed designation of origin. We know that the best Cheddar is made in Somerset, but production spread over a century ago across the UK and into Scotland, where it also thrived. More significantly, Cheddar became a global concern, travelling with English emigrants to the US, Canada and Australia. Cheddar’s popularity, combined with its ability to survive transportation, meant that it spread fast as these countries grew in population, infrastructure and wealth.

In these countries, Cheddar became the standard, often just described as “cheese”. When the Industrial Revolution arrived, it was being produced on a vast scale and the US and other English-speaking nations began to import it back to the UK, crushing Cheddar production here. This looked like a disaster but in some ways it was the making of Cheddar: becoming a national and then international concern helped it overcome all competition. Previously, almost every area of Britain had had its own cheese, but most fell out of favour as communication and trade grew. Cheddar was given the chance to prove its worth, and came out on top.

In the 21st Century, Cheddar has become more popular than ever. Mass-production focused on its versatility, but these days it’s also found its place in foodie culture, and is properly appreciated for its quality, subtlety and variety as well. It took a while, but our Cheddar has now gained a foothold in France and the rest of Europe, where cheese-lovers have recognised that, while they have many great cheeses of their own, ours offers a different flavour profile that competes on every level.

From its origins in a tiny region deep in the English countryside, Cheddar has grown to take its place in the larders and lives of people across the world. Its only real rival for popularity, mozzarella, may have won an edge with the current popularity of readymade pizzas and pastas, but it simply can’t compete in the same number of areas. From packed lunches and garnish to gourmet cheeseboards, Cheddar is ready for every occasion, truly a cheese for every season.

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